Welcome to Morocco Marrakech and Essaouira

Tuesday
We left home by taxi at 12.30 pm. 2 hours to airport excellent service for our Journey to Morocco visiting Marrakech and Essaouira . 1 hour for check in and security and into pre-booked lounge. Good selection of drinks and snacks including soup and scones. Ordered lunch from Dexter’s menu (restaurant in departure lounge) limited menu, steaks or burgers couple of salads and sharing plates. Delivered to us in lounge fairly quick service. Not the best quality burger slightly dry and steaks a little on tough side, but will keep us going!
Boarded plane at about 16.30 took off dead on time at 17.05. Flight time around 3 hours. Excellent smooth flight landed at 20.00 easy access through customs etc. Met by Saed the local agent for Classic Collection Holidays and a driver. Fifteen minute transfer into the city of Marrakech. Met by a porter from the Hotel Palais Sebban who loaded all our bags into a cart. A 5 minute walk through alleyways dodging, Tut-Tuts, mopeds, donkey and carts etc, definitely a cultural shock! Through a large wooden door, down a dimly lit passage and into paradise! Architecture in hotel exquisite, with beautiful mosaics and carvings. Welcomed with refreshing mint tea and pastries. Up winding staircases through terraces of beautiful mosaics to our rooms, both lovely, very traditional but beautiful ours with own terrace complete with fountain!
A quick freshen up and down to the bar for a refreshing beer or two! Beers approx £2 a bottle for the local beer, a Malibu and coke £5 but a very large shot! Very welcoming, friendly staff. Excellent wifi in bar area, but not available in rooms.

Wednesday
A fairly good night’s sleep but cold think we need to sort the air con! Very quiet woken by the birds at about 6am, lovely to sit out on the terrace and read for an hour or so not hot at moment fairly overcast and a gentle breeze.
A good hot shower and now to find our way to breakfast through the labyrinth of corridors, stairs and terraces! Breakfast lovely a good selection of pastries with some ham and cheese. Also able to order eggs or omelettes. Glass of freshly squeezed orange juice, tea and coffee all served in the beautiful restaurant.
After breakfast we met Saed and booked a walking tour of city for this afternoon and day trip to the Atlas Mountains on Friday. He gave us lots of useful information about the city. We then had a wander down through the souk what a mass of vibrant colours and smells. Donkeys pulling laden carts and mopeds whizzing through the narrow lanes, there doesn’t appear to be any highway Code! It all felt very safe, just had to keep saying “no thank you” to all the traders who are trying to sell to you but was not a problem. On the way back we had lunch at nice cafe not far from the hotel.

We Met Mohammed our guide for the afternoon. Although a walking tour, a vehicle takes you to the starting point and moves you around city to the various areas we were visiting. First stop the Koutoubia Mosque (Mosque of the booksellers) obviously couldn’t go inside but a stunning building and learnt lots from Mohammed. Next stop the Palais Bahia lots of fruit trees lined the entrance orange, banana, quince, and pomegranate. Again a stunning piece of architecture with mosaics and decorated carvings, the ceilings were particularly stunning. Then onto the Saadian Tombs from the 16th Century again stunning architecture. Then to one of the licensed spice markets and a very informative talk where we were able to taste and try some of the natural products. Of course we bought several different spices. Then to a carpet factory beautiful but sadly we have nowhere to put one.

Then we walked through the main square Jemaa el Fna which is huge and one of the world’s most exciting squares, a Unesco World Heritage Site, really is the heart of traditional Marrakech. At night a transformation….. The best time to see the transformation and street entertainment at its best is at sunset.
Then a walk through some of the souks, leather, metal, wood and where they dye the fabrics using natural dyes. We have also seen so many storks today nesting on roof tops and flying overhead! This afternoon was very good value approx. £20 per person including all the entrance fees to the monuments.
Tired aching legs and very hot as sun came out in full force about 3pm but learnt so much! We decided to eat in hotel tonight as we didn’t want to do anymore walking. A very good meal, I had pate de croustillades little filled filo pastry parcels of meat and cheese. Main course lamb tagine which was delicious then nougat terrine. Then so to bed to rest our weary legs!

Thursday
A better night’s sleep, Lee sorted the air conditioning so not as cold as the first night. A little overcast again this morning not the bright blue skies I was expecting but a comfortable heat though a light cardigan not gone amiss. Again a lovely breakfast with a different assortment of pastries, hard boiled eggs, cheese and fruit.
This morning we walked to the main square and found an ATM as most places seem to want cash. We then took a Caleche (horse & carriage) to the Jardins Majorelle, a botanical garden created in the 1920’s by the French Artist Jacques Majorelle and restored by Yves St Laurent, which were stunning, lots of cacti, palms and beautiful water lilies. Decided to walk back, a good half hour probably not a good idea as lots of car fumes and further than we thought! Stopped for a late lunch and had a lovely salad. For 2 salads, a club sandwich, a bottle of water, a sprite and a milkshake came to approx. £14.00.
None of the bars and not many of the restaurants serve alcohol so all having a good detox! Although the hotels and the more international style restaurants do serve alcohol.

We Wandered back to the hotel for a relaxing couple of hours on the sun terrace/pool. Heading down to Jemaa El Fna square tonight for dinner and to see the street entertainers making sure cameras are put away as they all charge for you to snap them!
The square at night was certainly something else gradually coming to life as sunset approached. We had dinner in one of the restaurants right on the square, we sat up on the roof terrace so we had a very good view. Full of entertainers, storytellers, jugglers dancers, musicians and a few we did not like the monkeys, snake charmers, boxers etc but all part of the rich tapestry. The food at the restaurant we had was not the best but only cost £12 for a starter which we shared, 2 mains 3 soft drinks and a coffee. After dinner we wandered through the square hundreds of street food stalls selling local delicacies as well as kebabs, fish etc. Such a busy place but fascinating all the same.

Friday
Up early for 9am pick up for our day in the Atlas Mountains and the Ourika valley.
A drive up the mountain road passing olive and almond groves to height of 2000 metres, stunning scenery. Stopped at restaurant for an included lunch of salad, tagine and fruit. Then a drive through the valley stopping at a traditional Berber house. Bought a miniature tagine. Nice drive back to hotel. Arriving back around 5ish. Again good value for money approx. £50 per person including lunch.
Tonight we have decided to try one of the restaurants in the guide book the Cafe Arabe about a 10 minute walk from our hotel just inside the medina. Again nothing special from outside but up a couple of flights of stairs to a lovely terrace, low sofa seating but lovely decoration (shame about the large screen TV there for the footie but no volume on. Lee enjoyed! ) Ordered our first cocktails of the holiday, mine a very nice mojito and Lee had a “perfect Martini”. Bruschetta to share for starter then veal in lemon for myself and brochettes for Lee served with fries, bottle of wine and couple of beers £50 a lovely evening for our last night in Marrakech.

Saturday
Early start today sad to be leaving such a lovely friendly hotel. Picked up at 10 am for transfer. To Essaouira. Definite change of scenery to more Saharan landscape our driver made several stops for us to take photos. Approaching Essaouira there were Argan trees (the trees that produce Moroccan oil and endemic to this region) everywhere there were goats atop trees wow what an amazing sight! Stopped at a women’s co operative (it is the women that produce the oil) bought some cosmetic oil and also some cooking oil. It takes 30kgs of nuts and 15 hours to extract 1 litre of oil.
Arrived at our hotel The Atlas Essaouira & Spa a complete contrast to our hotel in Marrakech, large and modern but with a lovely view of the beach. We had lunch at the restaurant “Seven” on the beach but a little disappointing. A couple of hours relaxing by the lovely pool. Wi-Fi excellent in all areas of hotel including rooms.
Tonight we walked into town approx 25 minutes and had a stroll round the harbour and the fish market. We then wandered into the medina and found a restaurant called the “Ramparts” felt like we were eating in someone’s front room very friendly and good service, we both had fish which was very good. They served us wine in coffee cups as they were obviously not supposed to be serving alcohol! Kate and Adam ate at a restaurant called La Licorne and had a really good meal again just inside the Medina. A stroll back to the hotel and a nightcap in the piano bar, good band and nice cocktails!

Sunday
A good buffet breakfast to set us up for a walk along the beach away from the town then retraced our steps and walked along the beach into town and a meander through the souk much smaller than Marrakech and not so claustrophobic. We also visited the superb Riad L’heure Bleu a superb hotel! We had lunch at the fish market £6 for 10 sardines, a tomato salad, bread and water yum! A walk back to the hotel and a couple of hour’s relaxation and to cool off by the pool.
Tonight a short walk to the restaurant Fanatic right by the beach, great for people watching and excellent and Mojitos! Tonight we shared a Moroccan salad which was huge, Lee had an assorted fish platter and I had Calamares, lots of fresh bread and dishes of olives. Two beers, a cocktail, a bottle of white wine came to £40. A stroll back to the piano bar for a night cap!

Monday
Woke up to an overcast sky and quite windy. So decided after breakfast to walk into the town to do some shopping. Couple of showers on the way but didn’t last long. A very good deal on some pashminas and some more Argan oil!
Back to the hotel for lunch at pool bar trying to brighten up still windy but nice and warm. Turned really hot by the time we had finished lunch so a nice couple of hours by the pool.
Dining tonight at Chalet Sur la Plage as recommended in the Berlitz guide. A nice walk down to restaurant, nice situation right by the sea not far from port. Decor a little faded grandeur. Waiters very friendly and
pleasant. We shared a smoked salmon platter for starter then Lee had beef entrecôte and I lamb cutlets both ok but nothing special. We we’re expecting something a bit more special so not sure we would really recommend as had much nicer meals in Morocco and better value. A walk back along the beach and stopped at a bar for a drink then back to hotel to meet our daughter and boyfriend for a last night cocktail or two! Cocktails are cheaper than having a G&T for instance. Kate and Adam ate at a restaurant called Taros and they has an excellent meal, complete with magician and excellent cocktails, just inside the medina.

Tuesday
Got up to dark cloudy skies and a torrential downpour! But by the time we had finished breakfast the sun was out and clear blue skies so off to pool to make the most of it before leaving for home this afternoon.
After a couple of hours of sunbathing we all headed down to one of the beach side restaurants for lunch. Returned to the hotel for a shower and to finish the packing.
Picked up at 4.15pm for our transfer back to Marrakech airport, an excellent journey with a lovely driver, a 15 min comfort stop and arrived in good time at airport by 6.15. Checked in and all the formalities done were told there was a one and a half hour delay due to French ATC strike. Not impressed with facilities after security, very poor choice of food outlets and complete chaos in the one we choose, food not great either.
Flight due for takeoff now at 22.25 only 1hour 30 delay better than LGW flight with a 16 hour delay! 15 minute turn around on our flight plane not cleaned but desperate for a quick take off before airport closes. Not bad flight but 3 medical emergencies on board so no in flight service for sometime then only limited, but staff worked so hard and very professional. A credit to Easy Jet.
Landed at approximately 01.30am very quick to off load luggage and very quick and efficient through customs. Taxi waiting and on the road by 02.00 am good drive home except M 5 closed so diversion through city excellent driver as on outbound trip. Arrived home at 03.45 very tired so straight to bed